Tuesday, August 5, 2014

The Last Fun Trip of a Somewhat Stressful Summer (by First World Standards)

An honest to goodness short entry! Instead of meeting up in West Yellowstone or in D.C., J and I decided to go right to the source and see Sean and Gillian in their new house in Missoula (a city name, by the way, remarkably still not accepted by Google's spellcheck, which is probably the way the not-in-my-backyard types in Missoula like it).

In the imagination of this sometimes Malthusian, Montana is one of the last frontiers, so it's dispiriting that the state's population just crossed over the 1,000,000 mark. In the spirit of suppressing population growth, I wish I could record that Missoula is lame and always smoked out by forest fires (as it nearly was our last visit, more than a decade ago), and that it doesn't even have an Indian restaurant (ok, that's actually true), and that, therefore, anyone thinking about Montana should move instead to Texas, if progressive, or Alabama, if conservative, but I have to confess that we had a great weekend, one made even better by the temperature dropping into the mid-40s both nights. Completely fun, relaxing, and drama-free weekends don't make for especially riveting blog entries, but hey, I'll take this trade-off anytime.

To begin with, most of us (even if we live in Sandy), don't have a federal Wilderness Area 1.4 miles from our front door. After an idyllic trail run in the Rattlesnake Wilderness, and much ado about nothing over a few moving boxes, it was time for the real business at hand: sampling Montana's practically-approaching-Fort Collins beer scene. In The Namesake, Jhumpa Lahiri poignantly wrote about the main character's wedding at a Doubletree, which for him confirmed the all-too-soon abandonment of his dreams of greatness and wealth. But I'm pretty sure Lahiri never sipped a Blackfoot IPA from Blackfoot Brewery in Helena while taking in the Clark Fork River below from the deck of the Doubletree Missoula.



Fast forward past a zippy Slovenian white and a damn good Italian meal (this isn't your grandfather's Montana), the main hike of the weekend brought us down the road to the awesome two-state Selway-Bitterroot Wilderness, and to Blodgett Canyon more specifically.


Sean's a local, and an experienced backpacker, and he manages an REI to boot, so we figured he'd be able to get us to the waterfalls at the end of the hike, where we paused for an outstanding Prickly Pear APA, brewed with real cactus, from the Lewis and Clark Brewery (also in Helena). Sure the cactus is pure marketing, but it's also delicious.

Too bad this little dip above wasn't actually the waterfalls in question, however. I don't have a picture of the real falls because we didn't make it all the way, thinking the above was it. Next time I guess.

The highway between the Bitteroots and Missoula should be renamed the Montana Taphouse Trail. After visiting the perfectly fine if perhaps trapped-in-the-90s Bitterroot facility (still called a "brewpub"!), perhaps the highlight of the whole weekend was our visit to Wildwood Brewery. You simply have to love a taphouse in a barn with rusting trucks out back and $2 saisons.

The final stop of a classic day was the vineyard across the street -- and I mean across the street -- from Sean and Gillian's house. Ok, Montana may not be the Trentino-Alto Adige/Südtirol wine region, my new kick, but the wines were decent, and the setting was unbeatable. 


Sadly, I think it's a straight shot to 2,000,000 people.

Sunday, July 6, 2014

Toward an early, hastily written, and poorly researched first draft of a history of the Obama presidency

I used to have a soft spot for Reagan speechwriter Peggy Noonan. Several years ago she wrote an interesting column lamenting the decline of journalistic standards in the age of the 24-hour news cycle and internet. Even if the media was pretty liberal during America's golden postwar years, she suggested, newspapers and TV news outlets at least had serious standards -- as she put it, there was always a fat man in suspenders fact-checking. But in the past twenty years, the fat man lost his job. (I tried to find this column but could not.)

Unfortunately, it now seems that Noonan has become a professional polarizer like all the rest. Her recent column in the Wall Street Journal, "The Daydream and the Nightmare," was a particularly egregious exercise in half-truths, innuendo, and intellectual dishonesty -- a perfect example of everything that's wrong with today's politicized media, on both sides of the aisle. It was enough to even break through my layers of apathy. (I hope you can link to the article here but I can never tell with the Journal's paywall). I also found this column interesting because it's undoubtedly a preview of some of the debates we historians will be having about the Obama administration for the decades to come.

Noonan begins by cherry-picking a poll with especially bad numbers for Obama. He is a relatively unpopular president -- no doubt about that -- though it's worth noting that until a few weeks ago, when Iraq went to pot (and don't forget the root causes of that; even Noonan herself recently conceded that both administrations are to blame) his approval ratings were hanging around in the mid-40s, even in the Right-leaning Gallup poll. [Blogger's note: on the day that this post went up, Obama's Gallup number was actually 45%.] Hardly good numbers, but not horrible, and better than W.'s at this stage in the presidency. It's also worth mentioning that Obama remains one of the most popular politicians in the nation. We live in strange, bitter times, during which most Americans have a deep distrust of all elites, and Gallup recently put the approval rating for Congress at 7% (7!). That's important context for Obama's numbers.

Noonan then notes that only Americans under 50 are proud of Obama, while "those over 50, who have of course the longest experienced sense of American history, were ashamed." This is an incredibly lazy statement. So Americans over 50 are always correct, and their experienced sense of American history (whatever that is) is the main reason why they dislike Obama?! I guess she didn't see the need to control for over-50s skewing Republican. And I guess older Americans' much lower support for gay rights and other forms of social change (I won't even mention race here) has nothing to do with the differing opinions by age. Major publications should not tolerate this kind of sloppy use of data, even by famous contributors. I think even Joe Morgan covering baseball for ESPN -- "I don't trust the numbers" -- had a better empirical mind. (Actually, I miss the team of Morgan and Miller ...). Maybe one of the biggest differences between those under and over 50 is familiarity with quantitative analysis.

Noonan then writes in her second paragraph, "We all know the reasons behind the numbers. The scandals that suggest poor stewardship and, in the case of the IRS, destructive political mischief." I'm not a lawyer, but this comment strikes me as close to libel, given there is currently no evidence whatsoever linking the White House to the IRS. Of course, she does just enough to cover herself, beginning the paragraph about Obama and then mentioning "political mischief" sans actor in a way that clearly implicates him without directly doing so. This kind of innuendo and wordplay in major publications is dangerous and dispiriting.

Healthcare comes next. The comment that Obamacare "continues to wreak havoc in marketplaces" is at best wild exaggeration given employment has come all the way back and the stock markets are at all-time highs. I notice, btw, that we hear less of this argument from Republicans than we did in the spring. Remember all that talk about the massive unemployment that Obamacare would cause? Hmm, let's look at the latest unemployment chart from the Bureau of Labor Statistics ... nice and neat downward linear trend anyone? It's almost like our $17 trillion economy has a momentum of its own apart from a law that has increased insurance coverage by 5%. 


Instead of such partisan hyperbole, it would be nice if op-ed writers would provide some balanced information -- an honest assessment of Benthamian (what a great word) utility -- even as they argue for one side. Obviously Obamacare produced winners and losers, like most government policies, and helped some companies while hurting others. Clearly some smaller firms retarded hiring as a result, and others -- like my sister's dental supply company -- benefited because the insurance costs for their employees started to come down (which was the whole point of the Republican-originated idea of using a marketplace to expand insurance). Obamacare has likely added jobs in the healthcare sector -- that radical socialist publication Forbes noted that the industry has gained 1,000,000 jobs since passage of the law -- and it will also cut down on the "job trap" by which people can't leave their current jobs -- can't try something new, start a business, etc. -- because they desperately need their employer's insurance. Oh, and fewer people will die in this country from a lack of healthcare. Perhaps Noonan could have mentioned some of these points as part of a more honest discussion of the law's many flaws.

The most outrageous stuff comes next. If there is one GOP talking point that drives me the craziest, it's that, as Noonan writes, Obama is "incapable of working with Congress." OMG -- can she really write this without mentioning how much the GOP leadership (to say nothing of the Tea Party rank and file) detests Obama and how they refused to work with him from day one? Um, remember when not a single House Republican voted for the Stimulus (the Stimulus begun by W.)? As I've written about before, there is no doubt that Obama's inexperience on the Hill hurt him. But can someone tell me what "working with Congress" would look like right now? Seriously. When they are suing him and hoping to impeach him if they win back the Senate in the fall? Also as I've mentioned before, it's no longer 1961, when congressmen used to drink together across party lines to cut deals. Even if Obama had LBJ's skills, which he surely does not, he would not be able to take people on rides on Air Force One and secure votes, the way LBJ used to. Thanks to the culture wars, gerrymandering, the aforementioned news cycle, etc. etc, Congress is about the most polarized it's ever been. Elizabeth Drew wrote about all of this very well in a piece called "Obama and the Myth of Arm Twisting." I'm sure Obama hates that he lost the 2010 elections, especially given, as the free-market-oriented Freakonomics blog conceded, "in a survey of leading economists conducted by the University of Chicago’s Booth School of Business, 92 percent agreed that the stimulus succeeded in reducing the jobless rate. On the harder question of whether the benefit exceeded the cost, more than half thought it did, one in three was uncertain, and fewer than one in six disagreed." But lost them he did, and a result we have the kind of stalemate that Madison imagined. This is more about a divided Congress in hyper-partisan times than it is about Obama.

I don't work in the White House, but I've written about Obama's aloofness before, and I have a feeling that Noonan's complaint that he has become even more aloof is largely accurate. But again, it's remarkably hyperbolic to write he "seems disinterested, disengaged almost to the point of disembodied." Notably absent from the column, for example is any mention of climate change, one of the defining issues of our era. The president is hardly "running out the clock" here. That the mainstream Republican party is now cowtowing to the anti-science (or, at least, fossil-fuel-industry-funded) fringe of the party is deeply disturbing, but it does not change the fact that the White House just launched a major climate change initiative. If you think that a more skilled Obama would "work with" Oklahoma Senator Inhofe on climate change, I have some land on the Oklahoma/Kansas border to sell you. Did everyone see that the last four Republican EPA chiefs just told Congress to act on climate change? This is cotton-candy-fantasy-land territory we're entering now, as my high school baseball coach loved to put it.

The final parts of Noonan's column are quite fascinating. She writes, "The world seems to disappoint him." I agree. He should be. Many progressives are disappointed that one of the two parties in our great country has chosen to disregard science, that many Americans still think we can remake the world in our image at gunpoint, and that old-fashioned racism (a small but not meaningless part of the anti-Obama backlash) is depressingly resilient. And I'd say "So sue me" as well when it was clear that no matter what I did or said, the Republicans were going to sue me. Dumb comment, but meaningful? Does anyone really believe that playing nice with the Republicans right now would prevent this lawsuit? (I have some land about two hours west of Salt Lake you might like ...) But I might add that this too shall pass. Conservatives and progressives are both very disappointed at this moment in time, and sour about the future of the nation, but we've been through this many times, and we'll come through it again.

Finally, Noonan argues that Obama is waiting for history to vindicate him. I agree with this claim, as well. But it's not that Obama has some sort of Abraham Lincoln complex, as she stretches to argue. It's that the long-term direction and demographics of this nation -- and the fact that Americans have come to embrace most modest extensions of the welfare state since Social Security -- favor his legacy. What Noonan needs to do is to get out of her over-50, Republican, and suburban luxury world of Great Falls, Virginia, and spend some time in, say, Columbia Heights, D.C., or any of America's youthful (and, I might add, economically dynamic) cities -- or even at the farmers' market in Salt Lake, home to the awesome flatbad of peas below -- places where it's unimaginable to the majority of young people that gay marriage is a big deal, or that companies should work hard to make it hard for women to get birth control under the trumped up guise of religious freedom. Then she might understand better why American politics are becoming increasingly age-stratified. And she might better understand that history favors Obama because the Tea Party is the last gasp of rural America, and rural America will continue to diminish in political importance in the years to come. Obama knows this will happen, and that his stances on gay rights and climate change will in fact be vindicated in the years to come, no matter how much golf be plays during the final years of his diminished presidency.

Friday, July 4, 2014

Not exactly Vegas ....

Happy 4th everyone. Sorry to be slow in writing up our latest trip. I've been distracted.


Anyway, J and I got back from Hawaii about ten days ago. I wasn't sure what to expect. Someone close to me who shall remain nameless dismissed Hawaii as too much like Vegas. Putting aside the dubious assumption here that Vegas is not pure awesomeness (America on crack, as I see it), I kept my eyes open. If this entry is a little light on irony and beer and heavier on photos, well, my advice if you go to Hawaii is: just take pictures.

Out first stop was Maui for the wedding of other Jeanine. About the first thing we did was go for an empty hike in a state park through a lava field. Definitely un-Vegas-like here. And yes, people really do surf a lot in Hawaii.


Ok sure, the Grand Wailea did have extremely cheesy $22 novelty pineapple drinks, so score one for the Vegas comparison there.

Photo credit Bill Dillard on Trover.com
But whatever, the resort was amazing -- right on the beach, which I've never seen in Vegas, and it had a better-than-Vegas series of pools (not pictured below). Best of all, our room was free because the other Jeanine and Casey won an entire wedding from theknot.com (thanks Jeanine!). Despite the photo, it never rained on our beach time in Maui. ...

My J was in the wedding,


which was officiated by this guy, who needs to be in the movies.

The beer of the trip without doubt was Maui Brewing Company's Big Swell IPA (and that's it on the beer front folks.) 

Before departing Maui we visited Iao Valley State Park with our new friends Joe and Danielle.


Then it was on to Kaua'i, Hawaii's rain forest island (here beach time would be rained out).

No need to write much about Kaua'i, except that Waimea Canyon -- the Grand Canyon of the Pacific -- is a must. And it was much closer than the other Grand Canyon is to Vegas.


We were lucky to get about 5 minutes of blue sky. The place gets over 400 inches of rain a year.



Next time we're hoping to hike into the car-less Nā Pali Coast instead of just seeing it from afar.

Remember the waterfalls at the beginning of Fantasy Island? Those were easy enough to find. Fast forward to 19 seconds.


Kaua'i has absurd beaches, including the one where South Pacific was mostly shot (not pictured).














Kaua'i also has a serious stray rooster problem, apparently made worse by hurricane-induced escapes in 1992, although they're pretty great when they don't cause traffic accidents. Until Marcus Samuelsson opens a restaurant in Vegas, not much in common here.



Our last stop was Oahu, mostly because J's great-aunt Pat has been living in Honolulu for 40 years. Here's the view from the balcony of her brilliantly just vacated apartment.



Our main goal on Oahu was to finally consume some shaved ice, which had eluded us so far. This was the smallest of three sizes.


Sorry, I forget the exact name of these Hawaiian gods at the Bishop Museum.


In the secular realm, my favorite queen was definitely Ruth.

 After the Buddhist temple,


a hike up Diamond Head with, I'm not kidding, an entire Tokyo high school gave us good views of downtown and the famous millionaires' playground of Waikiki Beach. 


Like Vegas, Hawaii has a lot of great restaurants (though getting the fish is a little less energy intensive.) J's cousin Charlie and Loretta and Reese took us to lunch on the water near Outer Realms, their comic and games store.

And speaking of restaurant with great views, we met up with Nader and Ada -- Tübingen friends -- at Roy's for some of the best fish of the trip.


If you go to Honolulu, make sure to read my MA advisor James Mohr's book Plague and Fire about the burning of Chinatown in 1900 as a (racist and totally bungled) precaution against the spreading plague. When in Chinatown today, we prefer this place.


I think we ate about this much fish in ten days.

And we ate at Buzz's near Kailua beach, just a few tables from where the Clintons and Obamas ate. (Coming from Utah and Kansas, Hawaii felt like a strange one-party state parallel universe.) Not a bad beach for the suburbs.







Honolulu has a solid art museum, too -- and it's actually a museum, not the lobby of Caesar's Palace. Sure it was strange that the Georgia O'Keefe and Winslow Homer paintings were all in storage (?), but Kristin and Jason, check out Grandma Moses's depiction of the Cambridge Valley, right near you guys.

In the end, I'm actually pretty sympathetic to the Vegas comparison. Both places have a culture of anything goes.


 And while watching a surf movie at the beach

the ultimate Vegas connection dawned on me: Elvis. Seriously, watch this trailer to Blue Hawaii


Two more pictures for the road (Waimanolo Beach).