Friday, March 24, 2017

Maailmanmestaruuskilpailuiden Huumaa

Sorry this post is overdue. After Helsinki we proceeded to the World Championships in Lahti -- for what turned into one of our funnest trips ever -- and then even more travel got in the way. Stay tuned for England.

"What does the title of this entry mean?," you ask? World Championships Fever Feeling, of course. You can't make up these Finnish words.


And that's exactly what we felt all week on our friends' lovely pig and barley farm about 25 kilometers from Lahti. The place was even more beautiful than we imagined in our heads (and let's face it, many things aren't). In the mid-1800s, the farm was owned by the Russian governor general of the local province, or something like that. Kari's and Maijastiina's English is excellent, but one can only do so much translating of the nuances of the Russian Imperial bureaucracy ...


The farm runs down to a beautiful lake, and the feel of the place is pretty much terrific.

Normally the farm would have had about 15 kilometers of Kari-groomed ski trails on it, but climate change took care of those this year. But no problem (I mean, the lack of skiing on the farm was no problem, not climate change). Thanks to rain in February in Finland, and then freezing, and then just a skiff of snow, the lake was absolutely perfect for miles and miles of couldn't-get-your-heartrate-up-if-you-tried crust skiing.


Guess if the cabins on the Finnish lake had cool architecture and design.




















Kari and Maijastiina have a "summer house" about .3 kilometers from the main farm house.























We also skied closer to Lahti (indeed, the trails eventually make their way to the stadium) on the fun rolly-polly trails of Hollola.


The farm comes with two fantastic dogs, Rocky and Romy (Americanized spellings).























And even the pigs were cute (this guy was a little alarmed because I managed to wake him).























But of course the real matter at hand was going to the races. By the time we arrived in Lahti, the Americans had already won two medals: bronze and silver in the individual sprint, and bronze in the two-person-team sprint. But still there were chances for more. The event we'd been looking forward to the most was the 4x5k women's relay, and we paid the big bucks to sit in the stadium for this one.

We were about 30 seconds behind after the first two laps, and on the third lap Liz Stephen came agonizingly close to catching the leaders. I think think this is her coming out of the stadium starting to climb with the leaders in sight, but maybe it's Diggins ...























Unfortunately we couldn't close the gap and finished 4th. It's a little unhealthy how much I wanted to medal so we could celebrate that night downtown at the medal plaza. J had certainly seen enough.



 Luckily, the Finns had an eepa perfect for the occasion.






















And still, it was a good race, in part because the Americans had fast skis throughout the championships. Here's one of the American wax techs -- one of the silent heroes behind our two medals -- in the Portland airport. Suffice it to say I now know that photographs aren't allowed in the customs area. Suffice it to say this is the only picture I took in the customs area. 

One of the coolest moments of the Championships came just before the relay, when a 92-year-old Finnish Olympic gold medalist skied a lap around the stadium. She (and her technique at age 92) was completely inspiring to everyone there, not just the Finns. If you start the video at 1:40, you can clearly see our American flag for about the next ten seconds.


We ended up going to five days of racing, which at first sounded like a lot, but I would have happily gone to five more. Of course, we had to learn a few tricks of the trade. Assuming you're planning on going to Finland for ski races some time, here a few guidelines to keep in mind.

First, bring a large thermos with hot chocolate and another with "French coffee," as the Finns call coffee with cognac (wanted to get a picture of Artturi into this entry).

Next, pack lots of little sandwiches ...


... but still load up on reindeer sausage and reindeer stew.

Bring a cowbell of course.

And don't forget the reindeer cups.

And before you ever get to the stadium, load up on Shove Tuesday buns, possibly the most delicious concoction you've never heard of. If you're looking for a start-up idea, I guarantee a shop selling these cream- and jam-filled delights in Brooklyn would print money. Here's a recipe (though Artturi says to use water, not milk).



Make sure to bring a flag. This way, Kikkan Randall's dad can find you (Randall is the most decorated US World Cup skier of all-time, and she won the sprint bronze in Lahti).

Be one of the 35,000 in the stadium watching ski jumping at night, which is a complete blast. Look, you try capturing these guys in the air with a point and shoot.



The jumps are seriously high (artsy shot alert).



Allow time to hit the sauna at the stadium. (Ok, it's true, we didn't.)

And make sure to hit the after parties. You have to love a culture that labels the area one visits after watching a ski race buzzed on rum hot chocolate the "after ski bar."


This place was even better.



Vary where you sit/stand. Sitting in the stadium was great, but so were standing essentially in the end-zone, and then being right up against the boards as the racers came screaming down Indian Hill for the women's 30k on Saturday.


We had a chance here to take pictures during warmups. Here's Jessie Diggins sort of ruining what could have been a great shot.


Kari and Maijastiina, this is Krista Parmokoski, right? (actually taken the first day)























The 30k itself was an epic nail-biter. On a beautiful sunny day, Diggins stayed with the small lead group for 29k, and I honestly believe that, if she had broken from the pack first, she could have taken down the Norwegians. In the end she was a close 5th, the best ever for an American woman in the culminating long race at Worlds. I'm pretty sure she was so close because of the encouragement we yelled at her during warm-ups ... If you start the video at 53:40, you can clearly see our flag again.


We had to get one last group shot leaving the stadium.

On Sunday, the final day of the racing, and our last in Lahti, we stayed at the farm for a blissful last afternoon of skiing, watching the men's 50K on television (in which the Finns medaled), and eating one last absurdly good meal. We had no idea why Kari and Maijastiina kept telling us that we were eating "Swedes" ... I thought it had something to do with how all non-Swedish Scandinavians poke fun of Swedish people. Turns out that the Brits call rutabagas Swedes. (Who knew?) The Finns also don't call Baked Alaska Baked Alaska.
























Sorry Trump, Finland first.



Monday, March 6, 2017

"Always There is Lager"... and pine tar eepas (aka Helsinki)

I know everyone is disappointed I didn’t live blog the Nordic World Championships last week in Lahti, Finland. Sorry about that, but J and I were having too much fun, first in Helsinki (below) and then 100 kilometers north, near Lahti (entry to come, with just a few teases below).

At the risk of killing the suspense, I’ll just say up front that we loved Finland and the Finns. In The Almost Nearly Perfect People: Behind the Myth of the Scandinavian Utopia (which is completely worth reading even if you’re not about to take three flights and nearly 20 hours getting to Finland), Michael Booth describes himself as “an unabashed groupie and cheerleader for all things Finnish.” He also writes that he would be comfortable if the Finns ruled the world. I couldn’t put it any better. The Finns may have a great entry in the “American First, My Country Second” video contest (anyone know of a funnier one than this one?), but calling themselves second is just their modesty on display. (Has there ever been a Finnish Nordic medalist who didn't give most of the credit to the wax techs?) But I digress. Seriously, this video is hilarious:


And speaking of Finnish modesty, in the spirit of Trump deciding to accuse another president of spying on him based on conspiracy theories and fake news emanating from hard-right webpages, let’s start the entry in earnest by fact-checking the stereotypes about Suomi I had going in …

Yes, Finland is dark and cold. When we arrived, it was howling wind in the harbor, and the sun — which we then did not see for another week — seemed a set piece because I couldn’t detect any actual heat radiating from it. And then the rest of the weekend, the sky looked like this.


Yes, the Finns really do eat reindeer and bear, although granted, the below comes from the somewhat touristy old market hall, the Eately of Helsinki.


Yes, they really do take lots of saunas. Maijastiina and Kari, our friends and hosts in Lahti (really Hämeenkoski) sometimes take two a day. And a lot of Finns, at least in the countryside, have a sauna for winter use in their house and then a summer one in the backyard (or at the summer house; they are mad about their summer cottages, sort of like in Minnesota). The Finns own more saunas than cars, which is surely a sign of an advanced civilization. Standing out in the snow at the farm in between stints in the sauna — pretty much naked, and with a Proper American beer someone just happened to bring to Finland — was just pretty much terrific, but this gets us a little bit ahead. Sorry, no picture here.

Yes, they really are obsessed with cross-country skiing, which is of course partly why we visited in the first place. As a member of the tiny tribe of Nordic junkies in the U.S., it was such a bizarre and wonderful experience — Kari, let’s call it surreal — to enter an alternative universe where the cab drivers are hanging on every word of the radio call of the women’s skiathlon from the airport to the hotel (granted, a Finn won silver in this race, but still). One day J and I had a lovely lunch at the cafeteria at Stockmann, Helsinki’s old department store (our Estonian friend Liia remembers going to it long ago), and the TVs for sale just happened to be displaying a replay of the epic team sprints, in which Jessie Diggins and Sadie Bjornsen earned a bronze medal for the Americans (which we didn’t see live in person because someone failed to base the intra-Finland itinerary on the odds of the Americans medaling each day). Here’s Diggins after securing bronze by the length of a ski tip.


Yes, Helsinki looks a little Soviet. (It’s a long story about being in the Russian Empire in the 19th century after splitting off from Sweden and then precariously trying to preserve independence with a certain bear nearby in the 20th century). They say Helsinki now has the only statue of Czar Alexander II outside of Russia (oddly juxtaposed in front of one of the city's rather austere Lutheran churches). But I dunno -- why bother fact-checking?


And apparently during the Cold War several western movies used Helsinki as a stand-in for Saint Petersburg. Yes, some of the apartment buildings are 1960s brutalist. But many buildings are quite beautiful, and the city contains a surprising amount of Art Deco … including the main train station below with the tower. Somehow the city ends up being a strange cross between St. Petersburg and Miami and Ljubljana and Brooklyn (the last for its hipster vibe and endless espresso cafes, not for any brownstones).





And the main Esplanade is absolutely beautiful.


Yes, the Finns love design, so much so that the Design Museum was one of our highlights. And they take design seriously.


And did you know that Princess Leia wore a Finnish necklace?


Yes, the Finns enjoy their alcohol and overpay for it in highly regulated state Alko stores -- I guess the closest thing to Utah we saw on the trip. But actually, the stereotypes about Finns and booze are wildly exaggerated; they drink less than many Europeans and, no, one doesn’t see a lot of drunken people staggering through the streets. It was actually the visiting Norwegians and Swedes who went craziest in the Alko store in Lahti, hilariously buying out all of the Aquavit (which is not really a Finnish specialty, but I highly recommend the Aquavit from the tiny Helsinki Distillery Company anyway, along with its gin flavored with hops and birch). 

In fact, moving firmly over now to the surprises department, it turns out that the (experimental) beer culture in Finland is pretty much terrific. It just makes me amazed once again how far behind the Germans are. I’d never had a hemp beer before.


And if you think you like and have had piney beers, well, sorry guys, I’ve had a pinier one. I mean, this one, from a brewery and distillery in Lahti named Teerenpeli -- full whiskey casks for sale, 1400 Euros -- actually contains pine tar.


I guess the fact that the Finns are finding creative new uses for one of their biggest exports in the 19th century demonstrates why their economy is doing so well …

And yes, dear American friends, I will now answer the mother-of-all questions: even though our new friend Artturi (one of Maijastiina and Kari’s sons**) modestly undersold Finnish beer when he wrote, asked about Finnish beer in advance of our trip, “Always there is lager,” the Finns love IPAs, pronounced "eepas." About half the beers in the supermarket are eepas (no Goses yet), and they make an excellent hearty 100 IBU one to boot.


** and by the way, another of Maijastiina and Kari’s sons has a private sauna even in his 20-something, just-out-of-college apartment. We didn't get to meet him, however, because he was in Mexico -- during World Championships no less! So apparently there are a few people who don't like being in Finland in February.

Where was I? Ah right, beer and now food. I had assumed that there would be a few high-end restaurants serving Finnish staples like reindeer and perch, but we were not prepared for how fantastic the food was. I’m not talking about the usual lovely, how-do-they-fit-all-this-food-in-a-Park-City-kitchen-sized-room-at-best hotel breakfast buffet, one of the things we most miss about our time living in Europe.


I’m talking about hold-their-own-in-New-York-inventive-and-completely-delicious-I-can't-believe-this-place-doesn't-have-a-Michelin-star-call-Chef's-Table kind of food. That's vendace on the left (a fish we had never eaten), and in the front an open-faced porkbelly sandwich -- porkbelly being the bread. Yes ok, the second picture is of perch.


The bread is herkullinen too, though I will say there is a strange absence of bakeries. I’m not a big offal guy, but I can report that reindeer tongue is delicious (look for the little pieces on the plate, not the main loin). The plate had more white space than my students' blue books.


More on food — and more reindeer — from Lahti. But it’s worth mentioning here, finally, that the desserts, often some variation of oats or pancakes and fruit with caramel and cloudberries or seabuckthorn berries or lingonberries, are J’s dream.

I guess three other things surprised me about Finland. First, the Finns are absolutely mad about smoothies. As in, a smoothie a day is as common as a sauna a day. Or as common as 6 cups of coffee a day (they lead the world in coffee consumption). I've included a recipe for a lingonberry smoothie in case you don’t have the Winter issue of Lapland magazine handy.

Second, the Finns are absolutely mad about licorice. I’m not sure the Stockmann had enough on hand to suit their needs this day; maybe they were cleaned out from World Championships.

And finally, if you are not familiar, let me introduce you to the Moomins, a fictional family of … what exactly? … who have been the Peanuts of Finland for more than half a century. (I won't go into the whole topic of the Swedish-speaking Finns ...). 1970-71 episodes in English!


Slightly creepy perhaps yet totally irresistible, the Moomins are a very serious part of Finnish culture, as in put-in-the-Design Museum serious.


But luckily, there was no need to go to a museum to enjoy 6 cups of Moomin coffee.


On to Lahti.

Sunday, January 22, 2017

January 21, 2017

I went to D.C. this weekend to participate in the women's march and to see family. I am fully aware that marching is barely tougher than clicking send, and that all the human hours (and fossil fuels) spent on getting 500,000 plus 600,000 to a million people to the mall would have been better spent registering voters and getting anti-gerrymandering measures on the ballot in 2018 (and this is going to happen, including in Utah). I am sure Mom would have said, "Fine, but will they vote in the midterm elections?" But I do happen to strongly believe that improving women's rights around the world is not only moral on its own terms but would also help solve a whole host of other problems, and I want to be able to tell people from the porch of the nursing home some day that I participated in this historic statement against the misogynist-in-chief. And hey, it was a week off in the race schedule. J gave up a powder day in Park City to march in PC. Now that's real dedication.

We started behind the Capitol, near the inaugural stage. Apparently Congresspersons make a lot of trash.


Here's an obvious statement: there were a lot of people there (** see the articles at the end of this entry). During the gathering rumors flew around that the march itself had been cancelled due to excess crowds, which proved to be untrue, but there ended up really being not one march but several because the massive crowds had to be dispersed along several streets. It's hard for ground level snapshots to capture just how huge the crowds were.



It was great to march with my aunt and uncle, who made the immediate observation upon arriving that, unlike 1960s marches of their youth, all ages participated in huge numbers on this day. I think this is Ellen and Paul's first cameo on NPLH. 


Of course it was all about the signs. Here are some of my favorites. The comb-over one only scratches the surface in the comb-over genre.

Of course these signs only scratch the surface. This link offers a great compilation from around the country.

The vibe after the march was even better. I walked about 3 miles north from Judiciary Square almost to the Georgia Avenue Metro stop just soaking in what was a very peaceful and strangely optimistic vibe (maybe everyone knew it's a lot easier to be in the opposition than to govern ...). The Lutheran Church in Logan Circle was pretty much a party with a band and refreshments, and everyone was sharing their phone power cords at Dolcezza Espresso. Because modern revolutionaries need exquisite coffee and fully charged phones.

Speaking of that last photo, I'm actually getting excited about how much Trump is lying baldfacedly (sp?). All presidents dissemble, obscure, and lie, but he doesn't seem to understand that some of us still don't live in a post-factual America, and that when you surreally claim that your inaugural crowds were the biggest ever, you're going to be fact-checked. Sorry Trump, you can't brand reality. But here's the thing: obvious lies are one thing, but going forward, the larger problem is going to remain the bizarrely different interpretation that the Fox News set digests on a daily basis -- interpretations that don't quite rise to the level of lying but are incredibly skewed. When I got home last night, I was curious to see how CNN and FOX diverged on the matter of Trump's lies about his crowds. The two pieces below, from the headlines on down, are a perfect encapsulation of how Americans live in two different worlds, and I think I'll use it in class some time (and by the way, I always tell my students that most Americans are neither liberal nor conservative activists; most Americans are pharmacists in Akron. But, that said, we really do have two Americas right now. Just as it's hard to imagine an Idaho rancher strolling into his cafe and professing his love for Hillary, it's almost comical to think of how few people at Midlands Beer Hall last night on Georgia Avenue (fantastic by the way!) would ever consider supporting the groper-in-chief. But I digress ...): 

I'm no great fan of CNN right now, but at least this cnn.com piece it doesn't fall into the trap of false equivalency that the network often does. At least it least tries to establish the facts and does a bit of a research, like checking the 2013 Metro data. Then compare to the foxnews.com article. 

White House press secretary attacks media for accurately reporting inauguration crowds

"That's what you guys should be writing and covering," new White House press secretary Sean Spicer angrily lectured reporters on Saturday during his first remarks from the podium of the press briefing room.

He was referring to the delay in Senate confirmation for President Donald Trump's pick to lead the CIA, Congressman Mike Pompeo, but the comment came after a long digression about how many people had shown up to watch Trump be sworn in as president.

"This was the largest audience to ever witness an inauguration, period," Spicer said, contradicting all available data.

Aerial photos have indicated that former president Barack Obama's first inauguration attracted a much larger crowd. Nielsen ratings show that Obama also had a bigger television audience.
Spicer said, without any evidence, that some photos were "intentionally framed" to downplay Trump's crowd.

He also expressed objections to specific Twitter posts from journalists. And he said, "we're going to hold the press accountable," partly by reaching the public through social networking sites.
His statement included several specific misstatements of fact in addition to the overarching one.
"This is the first time in our nation's history that floor coverings have been used to protect the grass on the Mall," Spicer said, claiming that this "had the effect of highlighting areas people were not standing whereas in years past the grass eliminated this visual."

In fact, coverings were used for Obama's second inauguration in 2013.

"This was also the first time that fencing and magnetometers went as far back on the Mall, preventing hundreds of thousands of people from being able to access the Mall as quickly as they had in inaugurations past," Spicer said.

In fact, a United States Secret Service spokesperson told CNN, no magnetometers were used on the Mall.

And Spicer said, "We know that 420,000 people used the D.C, Metro public transit yesterday, which actually compares to 317,000 for president Obama's last inaugural." Spicer's number for ridership on Friday was actually low -- the correct number, according to Metro itself, was 570,557. But there were actually 782,000 trips taken for Obama's second inaugural in 2013.

Spicer, at times almost yelling while reading a prepared statement, took no questions. CNNMoney called his cell phone a few minutes later; he did not answer.

Some longtime White House correspondents were stunned by the tirade.

Glenn Thrush of The New York Times wrote on Twitter, "Jaw meet floor."
"I've run out of adjectives," wrote Chuck Todd, the moderator of NBC's "Meet the Press."

Karen Tumulty of the Washington Post said Spicer's assertion about "what you guys should be writing" was "chilling."

Reactions were overwhelmingly negative, and not just from journalists.

Ari Fleischer, who had the same job as Spicer during the George W. Bush administration, tweeted, "This is called a statement you're told to make by the President. And you know the President is watching."

And Brian Fallon, who was in line to become press secretary if Hillary Clinton had won, wrote,

"Sean Spicer lacks the guts or integrity to refuse orders to go out and lie. He is a failure in this job on his first full day."

Conservative commentator Bill Kristol said "it is embarrassing, as an American, to watch this briefing by Sean Spicer from the podium at the White House. Not the RNC. The White House."
The White House alerted the press corps to Spicer's statement more than an hour ahead of time.
The CNN television network made a choice not to broadcast the Spicer statement live. Instead, the statement was monitored and then reported on after the fact.

Former Democratic congressman Steve Israel, who recently joined CNN as a commentator, said, "This isn't a petty attack on the press. It's a calculated attempt to delegitimize any questioning of @realDonaldTrump by a free press."

Spicer's statement came two hours after Trump spoke at CIA headquarters and described his "running war with the media." Trump spent several minutes of that speech complaining about news coverage.
In his remarks, Spicer suggested Trump would bypass traditional media outlets he believes are unfairly reporting on his presidency.

"The American people deserve better, and so long as he serves as the messenger for this incredible movement, he will take his message directly to the American people, where his focus will always be," Spicer said.

Spicer was joined in the Brady Press Briefing Room by members of his new White House press and communications staff, who are still moving into their offices and learning the way around the West Wing.

He tellingly led off his short statement with his tirade against the media, leaving announcements about phone calls with the leaders of Canada and Mexico, and announcing that Trump would meet with British Prime Minister Theresa May, to the end.

During those announcements, Spicer incorrectly referred to Mexican President Enrique Peña Nieto as "prime minister."
-- CNN's Kevin Liptak contributed reporting.


And here's the Fox piece, which makes no attempt to corroborate the claim that “This was the largest audience to ever witness an inauguration, period, both in person and around the globe" and assumes only the perspective of Spicer. BTW, this article, posted last night, just took a lot of searching to find. My sense is that they bury their obvious crap a day after the fact deep into their webpage. Again, this is all just one example, but it's a good one for the time capsule.  

Spicer accuses media of ‘false reporting’ in fiery briefing

White House Press Secretary Sean Spicer angrily accused the media Saturday of “false reporting” on the inauguration as part of what he called a “shameful” attempt to minimize enthusiasm for President Trump, beginning his tenure as the administration’s top spokesman on a combative note.

Spicer summoned the press to the briefing room at the end of Trump’s first full day in office to specifically condemn two pieces of reporting – a reporter’s erroneous claim, since retracted, that an MLK bust was removed from the Oval Office; and photos appearing to show light crowds at Friday’s inauguration.

Spicer called the former claim, made on Twitter, “irresponsible and reckless.”

He went on to say inauguration photos were framed to minimize their “enormous” support on the National Mall, while suggesting the reason crowds looked smaller was because floor covering used to protect the grass highlighted where people weren’t standing – and fences kept supporters from quickly accessing the scene.

Spicer also pushed back on what he called inaccurate crowd estimates, stressing, “No one had numbers,” since the National Park Service, which oversees the National Mall where spectators stand, no longer makes public an official crowd count.

Yet Spicer went on to put out their own estimate based on the capacity of certain spaces stretching from the Capitol to the Washington Monument and declared: “This was the largest audience to ever witness an inauguration, period, both in person and around the globe.”

Trump made similar comments a couple hours earlier during a visit to the CIA headquarters, where he said reporting low-end crowd numbers was the media’s latest attempt to mistreat him, much like he suggested they did in exaggerating a rift between him and the U.S. intelligence community over Russia meddling in the 2016 presidential election.

Spicer also argued Trump visited the CIA without an agency director because Senate Democrats are slowing the confirmation of Kansas GOP Rep. Mike Pompeo.

“That’s what you guys should be covering,” he said, adding Trump got a five-minute standing ovation at the agency’s headquarters.


Sigh. Wish Fox had consulted the images below from the New York Times. 1st is yesterday's march, 2nd is Trump's inaugural, and 3rd is Obama's in 2009. 

Sigh. Luckily there's still a lot of beer in post-factual America, and luckily I still have a variety of friends in DC. On Friday night Cedar and Rachel and I discovered the excellent Red Rye IPA form Mad Fox Brewing, and although the German beers at Midlands Beer Garden are pretty much macro wino beers in Germany, they also have some good ones from local DC breweries like Hellbender and 3 Stars. And yes, there are some advantages of climate change, like outdoor beers in January. 

Later, my population comrade Tom and I we discovered the joys of 3 Stars' Peppercorn Saison. Because revolutionaries need exquisite beer too.